Exact Jazz Bass string height specs in mm and 64ths at the 12th fret, plus step-by-step saddle adjustment and settings for fingerstyle, pick, and slap.
Dialing in your Jazz Bass string height is the single biggest playability upgrade you can make without spending anything. The Jazz Bass bridge gives you four individually adjustable saddles, and a couple of millimeters of adjustment is the difference between a bass that fights your fingers and one that plays fast, clean, and buzz free. Set it wrong and you get fret clank on every pop, dead notes above the 12th fret, or an action so high that fast lines turn into hard work.
This guide gives you the exact factory measurements in mm and 64ths of an inch, a step-by-step saddle adjustment walkthrough, and starting points for fingerstyle, pick, and slap playing. The specs apply to Fender Player, American Professional, and American Vintage Jazz Basses, and they are sensible starting points for Squier Classic Vibe and Affinity Jazz Basses too.
📋 Quick Answer: Fender factory Jazz Bass string height is 2.4 mm (6/64 in) on the low E and 2.0 mm (5/64 in) on the high G, measured at the 12th fret from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string, with neck relief around 0.35 mm (0.014 in). Set relief first, then adjust each saddle in small even turns, retuning before every measurement.
What's in this guide:
String height (action) is measured with the bass in playing position, strings open, from the top of the 12th fret to the bottom of each string. These are the factory starting points for a Fender Player or American Professional Jazz Bass:
| String | Height at 12th fret | Metric |
|---|---|---|
| E | 6/64 in | 2.4 mm |
| A | 5.5/64 in | 2.2 mm |
| D | 5.2/64 in | 2.1 mm |
| G | 5/64 in | 2.0 mm |
| Neck relief | 0.014 in at the 8th fret | 0.35 mm |
The A and D heights are not separate factory numbers; they follow the 9.5-inch fretboard radius, so each string sits in a gentle arc between the E and G heights. Treat every one of these as a starting point. A bass with level frets and a light touch can go lower; a heavy right hand or uneven frets will need more clearance. Vintage-style and Squier Jazz Basses use the same bridge layout, so the same numbers work as a baseline.
Relief is part of the same measurement system. Check it by capoing the 1st fret, holding the E string at the last fret, and measuring the gap at the 8th fret. Around 0.35 mm (0.014 in) is the factory target. If relief is off, fix it before touching the saddles, because a truss rod change moves every string height reading you just took. Our Jazz Bass setup guide covers the full adjustment order, and the Setup Specs Lookup lists the numbers for your exact model.
You need the correct hex (Allen) key for your saddle height screws, a precision ruler or string action gauge that reads in 64ths or tenths of a millimeter, a capo, and an accurate tuner. Vintage-style threaded saddles and modern bent-steel saddles both use two height screws per saddle, but the key size differs between Fender and Squier hardware, so check the fit before you start.
Get the bass ready before you measure anything:
Most bad setups start with a bad measurement. Three habits keep your readings honest.
Lay the bass on its back and gravity pulls the neck and strings differently. Hold the bass as you would when playing, or support it upright, and measure with the strings open. Read from the top of the 12th fret wire to the bottom of the string, not to the top of the string.
Every saddle turn changes string tension slightly. If you adjust two saddles and then measure both, the second reading is wrong. Tune the string back to pitch before you trust the ruler.
The outer strings tell you the bridge's overall height, but the A and D tell you whether the saddle arc matches the fretboard radius. A middle string that sits too low is the classic cause of a bass that buzzes only on certain strings.
Each Jazz Bass saddle has two height screws, one on each side. Both screws must move together, or the saddle tilts and the string can slip out of its slot under hard playing.
If a saddle runs out of travel, or the action cannot go low without rattling everywhere, the cause is usually relief, a high nut slot, or fretwork rather than the bridge. The generic action height guide explains how to tell those apart, and persistent buzz has its own diagnostic order in the Jazz Bass setup guide.
Factory specs suit most players, but your right hand technique changes what the bass can tolerate. Adjust in quarter-turn steps from the factory baseline and keep notes.
Goal: fast, even response with minimal left-hand effort.
Goal: punchy attack that stays clean when you hit hard.
Goal: clean pops and thumps without excessive fret rattle.
Goal: warm, controlled tone with minimal noise for recording.
| Symptom | Likely cause | First response |
|---|---|---|
| Buzz on frets 1 to 5 | Too little relief | Add a small amount of relief, then re-measure |
| Buzz above the 12th fret | Saddle too low or a high fret | Raise the affected saddle a quarter turn |
| Buzz on one string only | One saddle too low or tilted | Level both screws on that saddle and re-set height |
| Open strings buzz | Nut slots too low | Test by fretting at the 1st fret; nut work is a tech job |
| Every string buzzes | Action too low overall or neck too straight | Check relief first, then raise all saddles evenly |
| Action feels high but measures right | High nut slots raising first-position action | Measure 1st-fret clearance; factory target is 0.020 to 0.024 in |
| Notes choke above the 15th fret | Action too low for the neck's fall-away | Raise the bridge end saddles slightly |
| Saddles at maximum height, still buzz | Neck angle or fret level problem | Stop adjusting and see a technician |
The nut check deserves a moment. Fret each string at the 3rd fret and look at the clearance over the 1st fret: you want a tiny gap, roughly the thickness of a business card. If the string sits on the 1st fret, open notes will buzz no matter what the saddles do.
Action is one link in a chain. Change the links around it and the measurement moves.
Adding relief lifts the strings in the middle of the neck, which reads as higher action at the 12th fret. Straightening the neck does the opposite. That is why the setup order is truss rod, then saddles, then pickups, then intonation. If you skip ahead, you will set the same saddle twice.
Lower action puts the strings closer to the pickups, which increases output and, taken too far, magnetic pull on the bass strings. If you drop the action significantly, check pickup height afterward. Our Precision Bass pickup height guide covers the measurement method, and the same approach applies to the Jazz Bass's two single coils.
Heavier strings add tension, which pulls more relief into the neck and raises the action. Lighter strings do the reverse. Any meaningful gauge change means re-checking relief, action, and intonation in that order. Budget ten minutes for it with each new set.
Deciding whether to keep tweaking or move up to a better Jazz Bass? A quick Guitar Price Estimate shows what your current bass is worth, which makes the repair-versus-upgrade math much easier.
Fender factory spec is 2.4 mm (6/64 in) on the low E and 2.0 mm (5/64 in) on the high G at the 12th fret, with the A and D following the fretboard radius in between, and neck relief around 0.35 mm (0.014 in). Measure from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string in playing position.
For most players, the factory 2.4 mm E and 2.0 mm G is the ideal balance of speed and cleanliness. Light fingerstyle players can often go 0.2 mm lower, while hard pick players and slap players usually want 0.1 to 0.4 mm more clearance on the E and A.
Tune to pitch, hold the bass in playing position, and measure from the top of the 12th fret wire to the bottom of each open string with a precision ruler or action gauge. Retune before every reading, because saddle adjustments change string tension.
No. The E string vibrates in the widest arc and needs the most clearance, so it sits highest at 2.4 mm. The G sits lowest at 2.0 mm. The A and D follow the 9.5-inch fretboard radius between them, forming a gentle arc rather than a flat line.
Buzz in the first five frets usually means too little relief: the neck is too straight or slightly back-bowed. Add relief in eighth turns of the truss rod, retune, and re-measure. If only open strings buzz, suspect low nut slots instead.
Upper-fret buzz points to a saddle set too low or an isolated high fret. Raise the affected saddle a quarter turn and retest. If one fret keeps choking notes at any height, the fret itself needs leveling.
No. The best action is the lowest one that plays cleanly with your technique. A heavy right hand needs more string clearance, so an ultra-low action that works for a light fingerstyle player will rattle constantly for someone who digs in. Prioritize clean notes over the lowest possible number.
Start at factory specs, then raise the E and A by 0.2 to 0.4 mm if your thumb attack produces more clank than you want. Many slap players land around 2.6 to 2.8 mm on the E. Keep the G near 2.0 mm so pops ring clearly.
Usually, yes. A heavier gauge increases tension, pulls in more relief, and changes the saddle height you need. After any gauge change, re-check relief, then action, then intonation in that order.
It does. Higher action means the string travels further when fretted, which stretches it sharp, especially on the lower frets. Set your final string height first, then intonate by comparing the open string with the fretted 12th-fret octave.
Setting Jazz Bass string height is a fifteen-minute job with a hex key and a ruler, and it is fully reversible if you record your starting measurements. Start at the factory numbers: 2.4 mm on the low E, 2.0 mm on the high G, A and D following the fretboard radius, and relief at 0.35 mm. Then tune the action to your hands: a little lower for light fingerstyle, a little higher for pick and slap.
Keep the setup order straight: relief, action, pickups, intonation. If you are weighing up a used Jazz Bass or deciding whether a fret level is worth it, a Guitar Price Estimate grounds the decision in current market value. For the bench, the Bass Setup Cheat Sheet puts every Jazz Bass spec on one printable card, and the complete Jazz Bass setup guide covers the rest of the adjustment chain.